 16/20 Italian Chef Patrizia Simone was born in Umbria and cooks classic dishes from her homeland using the best seasonal produce. Working the front-of-house with warmth is husband George, originally from Abruzzo. Joining them is son Anthony, who has invigorated the business with his love of butchery, yeast cookery and traditional preserving. The family restaurant in Bright's main street is nestled in a Victorian home with rose-coloured walls, high-backed chairs and Italian knick-knacks on the fireplace, while the veranda feels like somewhere between a European summer resort and an Aussie barbecue. The food is simple but masterfully executed – a salad of fresh tomatoes, perhaps; a crisp deep-fried zucchini flower stuffed with seafood; or maybe a few slices of house-made smallgoods. Anthony and his grandmother Maria make all the pasta, including pillow-light gnocchi, and perfectly formed tortellini and penne served with a deconstructed caprese salad and grated dried buffalo mozzarella. There could be crisp-skinned suckling pig served three ways, or slow-cooked goat on earthy buckwheat polenta topped with sharp yet rich walnut gremolata. And to close, try a fluffy pudding filled with hot berries or a light nougat semifreddo. Open Tues–Sat 6.30pm–late Typical prices E $20 M $35 D $14 Cards AE DC MC V Eftpos Wine Good selection of local, Victorian, Australian and Italian wines; 7 whites and 6 reds by the glass Owners George and Patrizia Simone Chefs Patrizia and Anthony Simone Seats 60; outdoor seating; private room; bar  |